Category Archives: Ultimate Boat Maintenance Projects

More winterization tips.

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Boat lifts and docks. 

Depending on your dock and lift it the winter might not mean anything but removing the slip cover and greasing and checking the cables.  If it is a floating dock it might require removing the dock from the water and storing.  Which ever you do this is the time for a little preventative maintenance.  Preventative maintenance reduces the over all cost of ownership. Repairing before breaking extends the life of the item and reduces the cost of repairs.

Inspect the dock and lift for damage and corrosion.  Lubricate any pulleys and cables with good quality water resistant (marine grade) grease. This is also a good time to spray any cables with a rust and corrosion inhibitor. 
Remove any damaged boards or surface sections and replace.  If you don’t remove and replace at this time, make a list or what’s wrong and what parts you need to order. Order them early so you don’t forget. One good reason to do the repairs now is so that you are not pressured to get the repairs done and the docks back in the water come spring time. No one likes to miss a spring day of boating because you are waiting for parts (boat, dock or lift parts).

Paint or treat any surface material to seal the moisture out. 

Spring Boat Service – Trailer

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Trailers should be checked before use as well. Being parked on the side of the road because of a flat tire or a bad wheel bearing really puts a damper in the weekend boating excitement.  Lubricate and inspect the hitch coupler. Safety chains might keep the trailer from getting away from the vehicle when the coupler comes undone, but why have that happen in the first place.  The coupler needs to be free to move but at the same time fit tight over the trailer hitch ball.
Check the air pressure and inspect the tire treads and sidewalls for cracks.  Low pressure can cause the trailer to start swaying and potential cause the loss of control.
Inspect the bearings and repack if necessary. Don’t rely on just pumping more grease into the hub. The bearing should be cleaned and repacked at least once a year or so.  Bearing greasers do help keep water and air out of the hub, but over time the grease gets heated and hard and doesn’t provide the lubrication it needs to. The only way to prevent damage is to clean and repack the bearings.  If you use the trailer in salt water, check to make sure you can flush the hubs and break to prevent corrosion.

 Also test all the tail and back-up lights and the wiring on the tow vehicle.  Additionally, if there is rust or corrosion on the trailer frame it should be cleaned and repaired. Any damaged rollers or pads should be replaced or repaired also.


Extras
Extras are personal flotation devices, safety equipment and paper work.  Remember; don’t leave home without it means more than the boat. Make sure you have a enough personal flotation devices for the rated number of the boat or at least for the number of people that you take with you.

You’ll want a safe and dry place to keep the registration and insurance paperwork.  

You also want to make sure that all of your fire suppression and extinguishing systems are fully charged and in working order.  

If there are inspections required, make sure they are done before you head out on the water.    

One other thing to think about is having a good Marine First Aid kit.

Spring Boat Service – Engine

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Engine
It doesn’t matter if you have an inboard or out board engine, the basics are the same.  If you didn’t change the engine oil before parking the boat, now is the time to do it.  Oil is the life blood of an engine and needs to be able to efficiently lubricate and cool the engine.  Oil is also cheap when compared to an engine over haul. Reference your engine service manual for recommendations as to the recommended oil change intervals. 

If your engine was winterized and treated for storage, you will need to clean or replace the spark plugs and change the fuel filters.  It is easiest to just replace the old spark plugs with new ones.  But if you are saving a few bucks, you can also clean and re-gap the old ones.  All you need is a small stiff bristled wire brush and gapping tool.

 Don’t forget to change the fuel filter before you head out on the water.  Also make sure you have the tools and extra fuel filters on board before you go out for your first run. Many a boater has made it out on the water just far enough not to get back and had crud plug the filter stopping the engine.

Cooling systems should be checked and the fluid replaced or added to as necessary.  All hoses, wires and belts should be inspected and replaced if dry or cracked. It is a good idea to carry an extra belt or two with you along with the appropriate tools to change the belt.  Belt tension should be adjusted per the factory service manuals recommendations.

Transmission fluid, hydraulic fluids (power steering, power tilt) and oil injection tanks should all be inspected and refilled.  While you are at it, check the bellows on the stern drive, packing or stuffing boxes hinge points, U joints etc. Fittings, cables and connections should be lubricated. Many of the components will have grease fitting so that they can be lubricated using a grease gun.
The lower unit, drive shafts and propellers should be inspected for nicks and damage. Basic aluminum propellers (especially on lower horsepower engines) can have minor nicks filed by hand. Paint can be touched up with a spray can of paint from a home supply or auto parts store.  


But if you have brass, stainless, adjustable blades or any other type of high performance propeller, don’t take the chance of trying to fix it your self. Take the propeller to a good prop shop and have it repaired and balanced. 

Make sure that when you remove the propeller that you lubricate the shaft to prevent corrosion and assist in removal in the future.  It is always a good idea to have a back up prop on hand along with the appropriate nut or cotter keys.