Wings, Wheels and Water

Quick winter reminder – DON’T LEAVE YOUR AIRCRAFT!

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You might have read this here or in one of the magazines I write for already, but i feel it is very important to remind owners to not ignore their aircraft. 

Don’t stop exercising your aircraft…anytime of the year!  Winter is the hardest for the northern states.  But no use is bad anytime.   The worst thing you can do is just let it sit!    The following tips are a few basics to get you started.  Talk to your mechanic for more details and further recommendations.
Most mechanics will tell you the not to let your aircraft sit without running.  If you can’t fly the aircraft at least 30 minutes to an hour a month, at least ground run it.   
But don’t just run it for a couple of minutes and put it away.  You need to run it long enough to bring the oil temperature and cylinder head temperature up to the green arcs.  This will keep the upper part of the engine lubricated and free of moisture and corrosion.  It’s also important to change your oil at least every six months.  Oils can develop acids and other contaminants that are hard on the engine.  Another benefit of running the aircraft is it will allow the gyros to spin up and keep the bearings from pitting.
Fuel systems need special attention.  Make sure that you keep the fuel tanks full!  If there is very little room for air, there will be less moisture and less chance of water in the fuel system.  And for those owners with bladder tanks, it helps to keep the bladders from drying out.
What happens if you have water in your tanks?  Some mechanics rule of thumb is to add about 10 ounces of isopropyl alcohol to every 20 gallons of fuel.    Don’t get carried away with the alcohol.  More is not always better.  Too much alcohol will attack the rubber parts in the fuel system.  Why use isopropyl alcohol?  Methanol only mixes with the water and keeps it from freezing, while isopropyl combines with the water making it light enough to move through and out of the fuel system. 
Another thing you need to do is keep your batteries charged or remove them from the aircraft.  When a battery goes low it can freeze and break.  Not a problem if you live where it stays warm all year.  Of course, a dead battery it is still a problem, wherever you live. 
Many owners forget that the brakes and wheel bearings draw a tremendous amount of moisture.  If you leave an aircraft parked, the lowest most humid location is around the wheels.  If you have a tail wheel aircraft it is especially important to check these areas before flying.  Cleaning and repacking is essential on a regular basis.  The grease or lubrication is the only thing that is going to keep the moisture out of the bearings. 

Other areas that need to be worked and lubricated regularly are radios, doors and controls.  When you think about all the things that might need repaired or replaced because you didn’t “work” your aircraft, it can get pretty expensive.  In fact, it usually ends up costing more than if you just went flying!

More winterization tips.

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Boat lifts and docks. 

Depending on your dock and lift it the winter might not mean anything but removing the slip cover and greasing and checking the cables.  If it is a floating dock it might require removing the dock from the water and storing.  Which ever you do this is the time for a little preventative maintenance.  Preventative maintenance reduces the over all cost of ownership. Repairing before breaking extends the life of the item and reduces the cost of repairs.

Inspect the dock and lift for damage and corrosion.  Lubricate any pulleys and cables with good quality water resistant (marine grade) grease. This is also a good time to spray any cables with a rust and corrosion inhibitor. 
Remove any damaged boards or surface sections and replace.  If you don’t remove and replace at this time, make a list or what’s wrong and what parts you need to order. Order them early so you don’t forget. One good reason to do the repairs now is so that you are not pressured to get the repairs done and the docks back in the water come spring time. No one likes to miss a spring day of boating because you are waiting for parts (boat, dock or lift parts).

Paint or treat any surface material to seal the moisture out. 

Boat winter checklist

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I might have posted this before, but you can never be too careful when putting your boat away for the winter. Even if you live in the warmer climate’s where taking the boat out because of ice isn’t a problem…its still good to do a number of the items regularly. 

Cleaning buildup from the pontoons.
Taking a boat out of service requires the owner to take preventative steps to prevent corrosion and damage to the boats and its systems.  In the Northern states it is often called winterization, but in reality any time the boat is in a “lay-up” situation for a number of months, the owners should take steps to protect their investment.  Most of the following items can be done on the trailer, in the slip on the lift or in a shop. If you have a larger boat that stays in the water you will also want to makes sure that your boat is protected from the lake freezing by using bubblers to prevent ice build up against the hull.
Each boat is different and the options and systems on yours might need additional items serviced.  If you are planning on doing all the work, make sure you have a copy of the boat, engine and systems service manuals.

By following a simple checklist and with a little elbow grease, you can protect your boat during lay-up. If you are uncomfortable doing any of these items, call a professional. 
  1. Add a fuel stabilizer to preserve both the fuel and the fuel tank for the upcoming winter and spring months.
  2. Run the engine, checking the timing and basic operations. This also distributes the fuel stabilizer through out the fuels system.
  3. Remove the boat from the water and inspect the exterior for damage.  Make and repairs or notes to remind you in the spring and give the boat a coat of wax.
  4. You will need to protect the internal passage ways of the engine from freezing. Depending on the type of engine and cooling system you may need to add antifreeze to the cooling system (partial or fully closed cooling systems).  And/or you might need to drain the water from the engine block and manifolds and refill with marine grade non toxic antifreeze.  This can be done using an inexpensive flushing adapter, garden hoses and antifreeze. 
  5. During the time you are flushing and refilling the cooling system, spray sticky “fogging” oil in the carburetor or intake while the engine is running. Fogging oil will stick to the engine internal passage ways giving the inside of the engine a protective coating against corrosion.
    Fogging spray
  6. After you have filled the cooling passages with anti freeze and fogged the engine, shut the engine off and inspect the lower unit. Remove the bottom plug in the lower unit and remove any water that might be mixed with the oil (hopefully there will not be any water or you might need more repairs in the spring).
  7. Inspect the throttle, steering and shift cables for binding and wear
  8. Apply anti corrosion grease to all fittings, linkages and steering cables
  9. Check all the belts, hoses and the general condition of the engine, drive unit and lower unit.
  10. Remove any items from the cabin that might freeze.
  11. Remove and food that would attract rodents and bugs.
  12. Place some type of anti moisture containers (like Damp Rid) through out the cabin to help reduce any moisture build up that could cause mold and mildew over the winter.  Often times it’s a good idea to place the cushions and mattresses on an edge or lifted up with small blocks so there can be airflow over more surface areas. You don’t want to be asleep on a twin mattress thinking it’s comfy when it’s really moldy!
  13. If you have a water system, galley and head, you will need to drain the water and refill the system with non toxic marine grade anti freeze also.
  14. Last, cover the boat to keep out the elements, animals and bugs. Tarps or shrink wrap doesn’t matter.  If it’s too airtight the boat will get large amounts of condensation leading to mold and mildew. Make sure however you cover the boat it is tight but still has air flow.