Wings, Wheels and Water

Which aircraft is best for a “wanna be” Pilot

Posted on by

Which aircraft is best for a “wanna be” Pilot

Q. I am a pilot “wanna be” that attended your “Which aircraft is best for you” seminar.  After a week of seminars and walking the flight line at the fly-in, I am convinced that buying an aircraft probably makes the most sense for me.

Which aircraft is for me?  I was originally thinking of a Cessna 150 (I am the ‘stable’ personality you mention in your book with a little bit of the ‘driver’ mentality too), but I need to haul two people weighing probably a combined 430 pounds, so I think a 150 might be pushing it a bit.

I found an ad for a 1971 Cessna 172, 6300 TT, 2200 SMOH, and was looking for feedback so I wouldn’t get taken to the cleaners.

I would appreciate any help you can offer since I am completely new to this (the story of the $5,000 airplane definitely made me curious).  I do not have my heart set on any one plane, just the ‘being up there’ safely on a tight budget.  Looks are not that critical either.  I just want to fly whether it is ugly or not.

A. Nice to see you “wanna be” not only a pilot, but an owner too.

As you probably figured out in my presentations and columns, I am a Cessna 172 fan. The 172 models are one of my favorite aircraft. It is hard to buy a bad one, but there are a few considerations.  In your situation, the Cessna 150 would probably not be a good choice because of the weight requirement.  A Cessna 172 is a better aircraft especially when used as a two person and baggage machine.

The 172 costs slightly more than the 150 to own and operate, but it is still one of the most economical aircraft around and is also a great trainer.  Cessna did not reintroduce the 152 when they started back in production in 1997.  They introduced the Cessna 172 because it has more flexibility.  The 172 can perform as a trainer and a cross-country aircraft.  It offers more pilot opportunities and comfort than the 150.  The 150/152 models can perform almost all the feats of the 172, except for speed, load and number of seats.

Book prices are just a guideline.  It will probably be difficult to buy an aircraft like this for the book price, but at least it will give you a starting point.  I would think that the engine could make it a few hours more before needing an overhaul.  I would hope it would make it through your training.  In that time, you could put away a few bucks for the new engine.  Adding a lot of new equipment or new engines will not be a direct dollar for dollar recoup.  You will need to fly the aircraft a number of hours (probably 500 or more) to wear off a few of the “new” engine.

which aircraft

How to value an aircraft

Posted on by

How to value an aircraft

I personally use the Aircraft Value Reference Guide when I want to value an aircraft

I like the different options that Value Reference Guide has available. These options include airframe hours, engine hours, airframe and avionics options, features and condition. There is also a market range given for that special, once in a lifetime, perfect aircraft. These extras allow the price to be adjusted for all the factors that you can think of. BUT, it also makes the price more subjective than other price guides.

The price guides are just that, price guides. Not actual value. Of course the underwriters follow these guides. Let me give you another example. I had an owner buy a small, four place single. The base book value was $30,000. The owner financed $20,000 and insured the aircraft for $25,000. A few months later the owner installed a new engine and borrowed money to cover the cost. The additional amount was $15,000. This made the loaned value $35,000. Underwriting refused. I asked “why?” They stated because Blue Book was $30,000 and they won’t increase without POV. We provided proof. They said they would not cover labor, just parts value. I went to the manager and requested the increase again, denied. I asked “Why?” They again said Book value.

To make a long story short, I pulled my price book and used the base price and added the engine hours of a new engine and passed the requested amount. Finally, they agreed. They weren’t even adding for the engine. The point, they use the book but they don’t always add for extras. Make sure your agent has the ability to establish a good value and support it.

On a side note, if you owe money, the borrowed amount needs to be at least 10% less than the insured value. (Owe $36,000; insure the aircraft for at least $40,000.)

Besides book values, you can use the trade papers to get current advertised prices. These won’t guarantee the values, but the ads will help you stay within the market range.

How do you roughly evaluate an aircraft? Remember these are just estimates, no books, and just rough numbers!!! Don’t call me and complain. After I’ve said that — take the base value and add or subtract for airframe time. Light singles are worth about $4 an hour. Figure about 200 hours a year since manufacturer. Trainers are worth more per year along with charter type aircraft. Anything over that amount, deduct. Under, add to the base.

What is the base value? What is it currently insured for? What did you pay? Guidelines? You should be able to find a 60’s era, four place, single for around $30,000. Older will be slightly cheaper. You don’t find many four place aircraft priced or booked at less than $20,000. Use the classifieds to help get a basic price.

value an aircraft

For engine hours use 50% of the TBO. Figure about $10 per hour for smaller 4 cylinder engines. Avionics and extras are based on about 50% of the original value. Paint and interior can be worth about $8,000 (each) for a four place single. Compare to the trade papers

That’s it, the basics. You can always add for one owner, no damage, all logs, etc. But those are extras that are somewhat subjective. For a more accurate value, contact someone with a book! Remember this is just a rough guideline.

Boat Compass

Posted on by

Boat Compass

Boat Compass? Who needs one. I realize most people like the new GPS systems for navigation. However, I also want a compass. Here are a few tips on how to choose the right compass (besides getting one as a gift.  Hint, hint!) and decide where to place it.

Many people opt for GPS navigation and neglect the old reliable compass navigation systems.  The GPS can be simpler to use and often more accurate for the novice, but a good reliable compass is almost a necessity in my mind.  I have had GPS screens fail, database corrupt and numerous other problems.  While reliability is very high on the new electronics I always like a backup system, especially if I am going on a long trip with little service available.

What kind of Compass?

Many companies manufacture compass units.  One is ComNav Marine (www.comnavmarine.com).  They offer numerous models of compasses and autopilot systems that couple to the compass.

compass

Their recommendations come from four basic questions;

What kind of boat is the compass going to be used on?

Sailboats and powerboats have different damping characteristics and heeling angle limits.  These differences require a different design in the compass to compensate for those limits.

What size is the boat?

ComNav states that “the further the compass will be from the helmsman, the larger the compass you should have.  If your boat is greater than 8 meters (approximately 26 feet), consider a 100 Series or larger capsule”.  Lets note here that ComNav compass models are named for the apparent size of the compass card.  For example, the compass card on a 70 Series compass has an apparent size of 70 mm (2 3/4 “) while the 125 Series has an apparent size of 125 mm (4.9”). ComNav says “apparent” size since the dome and fluid inside the compass magnify the actual card size.

Where will the compass be mounted? 

Compass manufacturers do a very good job of designing compasses to be mounted in almost any location or position.  Typical mounting styles include: bulkhead, flush-mount and bracket-mount. The biggest mounting concerns are to make sure you can easily see the compass and to keep it away from things that could effect its operation (anything that creates magnetic fields or iron.)

What kind of compensators do you need?

The more steel in the boat (steel hulls) the more important compensators will be.  ComNav recommends the use of “compensators for all compass applications where the compass will be used for navigation”. They also offer a reminder that “the distance to the source of interference is more critical than the strength of it”.